4runner forum

So I have been doing a ton of research in the past 3-4 weeks on 4Runners and 4Runner mods in anticipation of buying one (going to test drive a 2021 TRD Off Road this weekend) and while info on stock 4Runner is pretty available (difference in model year, trim specs, etc) I'm having a hard time finding any definitive information on modding in general, but especially around suspension and wheel/tire mods.
It seems like everything is all over the place some people say this combination of parts will not rub, while others say it definitely rubbed, etc etc.
I'm coming from the world of things like Custom PCs, Photography, Firearms, etc where there are a ton of resources out there, it's fairly easy to sus out which resources know what they are talking about and which ones do not. Often times there's ton of comparisons between one product and another, and there are fairly distinct tiers of budget, mid tier, and high performance options, but there seems to be a lot of "well I tried this combination of things and i liked it a lot for my rig, but I can't actually compare it to the competition" in the 4Runner world.
Would love to get pointed in the right direction so I can just learn more about everything.
The plan is to use it as a daily driver but also take it overlanding and on road trips. I currently do a lot of camping already but I'm stuck with either car camping or backpacking and I want to explore the world of overlanding if that kinda helps everyone know which direction I am going in. My preferred resources are reddit and YouTube, although I've been having to go down a bunch of forums as well for 4Runner stuff (not too different from the guns, lots of valuable info on forums, however much of that has moved to reddit and YouTube)
Thanks!

Hello!
Sorry in advance for the long post, but I want to make sure I get all the relevant details in here.
In the mornings (or anytime my vehicle hasn't been driven in a while) my brakes will squeal a super loud, ear-piercing squeal until they get to temp (usually after a couple of stop signs). I've tried everything I can think of, but I can't seem to figure this out. Neither can the mechanics who've looked at it.
Here are all the details:

• I have a 2008 2wd 4runner sport. I upgraded the back brack calipers, rotors, lines, and pads a couple of years ago to the 5th gen calipers with akebono pads and brembo rotors. I lubed everything up with syl glide.
• This last year, I did the same upgrade to the front with the same brand components and the same lube. After a couple of days of driving, the brakes started squealing.
• I took everything apart and re-lubed it all, and things were fine. For a couple of days. Then the squeal returned.
• Decided to take it to a highly rated local lube place that does brakes to get a professional opinion.
• They told me the pads had no grease and the rotors had hot spots and would need resurfacing. I asked what was causing the grease to disappear or the rotors to get hotspots, but they couldn't give me an answer.
• They said it'd be about $750 to do the work. I told them I'm not comfortable treating symptoms without knowing the cause (and was super put off by their estimate) so I picked up the vehicle and brought it home.
• I took off the front wheels and discovered they only finger-tightened all my lugnuts (oh boy!) and that the brake pads were still greased up with my Syl Glide.
• At this point, I went to the 4runner forum for advice, and came across the idea of using different lube. So I cleaned the brake pads and put on some moly and the squeal went away. For two days.
• I decide to go to a new mechanic. My landlord recommends hers, who used to be a Toyota tech. Perfect. He takes everything apart and says everything looks fine, except a groove in the front passenger rotor on the outer edge. He doesn't see anything that would cause the groove or the squeal though.
• He decides to resurface the rotors for good measure (for $600 less than the last place quoted).
• Two days later, the squeal returns. He said to go ahead and order a new rotor to replace the one with the groove and he'll install it for free. If that doesn't fix it, he'll do more investigating.
• Meanwhile, on the 4runner forum, somebody suggests putting CRC brake quiet between the shims and the pad. Sure. I'll try anything at this point. This makes the squeal go away for just one day.

And that's where we are! The only thing I can think to do at this point is clip off the squeal indicators and see if that does anything. I can't figure out what's causing this squeal or why regreasing the pad contact points makes it temporarily disappear. It looks like somebody else has had a similar issue, but they never reported a resolution.
Any help, ideas, or anything would be super appreciated!

Hello!
Sorry in advance for the long post, but I want to make sure I get all the relevant details in here.
In the mornings (or anytime my vehicle hasn't been driven in a while) my brakes will squeal a super loud, ear-piercing squeal until they get to temp (usually after a couple of stop signs). I've tried everything I can think of, but I can't seem to figure this out. Neither can the mechanics who've looked at it.
Here are all the details:

• I have a 2008 2wd 4runner sport. I upgraded the back brack calipers, rotors, lines, and pads a couple of years ago to the 5th gen calipers with akebono pads and brembo rotors. I lubed everything up with syl glide.
• This last year, I did the same upgrade to the front with the same brand components and the same lube. After a couple of days of driving, the brakes started squealing.
• I took everything apart and re-lubed it all, and things were fine. For a couple of days. Then the squeal returned.
• Decided to take it to a highly rated local lube place that does brakes to get a professional opinion.
• They told me the pads had no grease and the rotors had hot spots and would need resurfacing. I asked what was causing the grease to disappear or the rotors to get hotspots, but they couldn't give me an answer.
• They said it'd be about $750 to do the work. I told them I'm not comfortable treating symptoms without knowing the cause (and was super put off by their estimate) so I picked up the vehicle and brought it home.
• I took off the front wheels and discovered they only finger-tightened all my lugnuts (oh boy!) and that the brake pads were still greased up with my Syl Glide.
• At this point, I went to the 4runner forum for advice, and came across the idea of using different lube. So I cleaned the brake pads and put on some moly and the squeal went away. For two days.
• I decide to go to a new mechanic. My landlord recommends hers, who used to be a Toyota tech. Perfect. He takes everything apart and says everything looks fine, except a groove in the front passenger rotor on the outer edge. He doesn't see anything that would cause the groove or the squeal though.
• He decides to resurface the rotors for good measure (for $600 less than the last place quoted).
• Two days later, the squeal returns. He said to go ahead and order a new rotor to replace the one with the groove and he'll install it for free. If that doesn't fix it, he'll do more investigating.
• Meanwhile, on the 4runner forum, somebody suggests putting CRC brake quiet between the shims and the pad. Sure. I'll try anything at this point. This makes the squeal go away for just one day.

​
And that's where we are! The only thing I can think to do at this point is clip off the squeal indicators and see if that does anything. I can't figure out what's causing this squeal or why regreasing the pad contact points makes it temporarily disappear. It looks like somebody else has had a similar issue, but they never reported a resolution.
​
Any help, ideas, or anything would be super appreciated!

I recently ordered a full-length, non drill Prinsu Roof Rack from 4Runner Lifestyle. I got as far as removing the stock rack and as I was mocking up the install realized that the antenna fin on the top of the truck intersects with the final cross member on the rack. I didn't see anything about it on their website but I did read on a forum that prinsu supposedly makes a special rear crossmember that avoids the fin. I looked on their website and didnt see any options for a different rear member. Anyone here that has had the same issue with the fin, what did yall do?

Over the past couple of months, I noticed a whining noise with my 2020 SR5 under acceleration or when I revved the engine. I attempted to rule out several things and concluded it was not the transmission or differentials since the noise could be heard while I was in park and not moving.
My next guess was the alternator or the power steering pump, but I couldn't determine anything was wrong with either of them, nor could a mechanic.
My wife was getting worried and since we share one vehicle, I kept trying to figure out what it might be. I really didn't want her stranded on a backcountry road with no cell signal in the middle of the night. After searching countless forums, I found that this is an incredibly common issue with the 4Runner and that it was likely nothing serious. However, I wanted to put my wife's mind at ease so we scheduled an appointment with the dealership.
While my truck is still under a limited warranty, the dealer is two hours a way and I try to avoid going there since it's an all day thing. But this seemed serious enough to get it looked at.
It took the dealer the better part of a day to diagnose the issue and checked everything from idler pulleys to the alternator to pretty much anything spinning under the hood. Come to find it, they determined it to be the idler gear on the timing chain (Toyota p/n 13530-31021).
They called Toyota and they agreed to cover the warranty repairs so I was happy, however the dealer told me the job involved pulling the engine out of the truck and it would take 4-5 days to complete. That was exactly the news I wanted, but they offered me a 2023 Highlander XLE Hybrid as a loaner and off I went.
I finally picked it up yesterday and thankfully the noise is completely gone. However, had the truck not been under warranty it would not have been a cheap repair. The idler gear was only $43.38 for the pair, but all the other parts required was in excess of $500 with something like 18 hours of labor at $150 an hour. So had this been out of warranty, it would've been over $3,000.
So for those of you having the whining noise when the engine is running and you're vehicle is still under warranty, you might want to have the dealer check it out and have them fix it. I doubt it's a fatal issue since there are forum posts with people driving for years with the noise, but if it annoys you or you want to put your mind at ease, it might be worth it for the dealer to take a look.
My guess is that this is a known issue with Toyota too and a fault within the 1GR-FE since the tech believed the failure resulted from improper internal lubrication. The part could also just be shitty too since one of the two the dealer got in when they ordered the parts was defective as well.

If so whatya think, pros cons etc, and I did the forum searches etc, looking g for more insight .
https://ironman4x4america.com/nitro-gas-suspension-kit-suited-for-toyota-4runner-2003-non-kdss-stage-1/?sku=TOY065CBKGS1P&gclid=CjwKCAjwq-WgBhBMEiwAzKSH6O_ped48pfU9a47DrsmKZjF3-P-zOddZcvStTsqH3kRzASVfJnA2HhoCxrgQAvD_BwE

I found a thread on Expedition Portal where this one trip leader from SW Co. told me the IFS on the 1st gen Taco/3rd gen 4runner didn't hold up very well at all on the trails at SH and Moab. He made it sound like you couldn't look at the front ends without something breaking. Heres the thread: Land Cruiser vs. Tacoma I refer to post #26.
Does anyone else have insight on this? I doubt the IFS is actually as weak as he's saying; otherwise it wouldn't be such a popular platform. Maybe they just don't hold up that well to the constant traction of Moab or other "rock-crawling" trails? What gives?

I found a thread on Expedition Portal where this one trip leader from SW Co. told me the IFS on the 1st gen Taco/3rd gen 4runner didn't hold up very well at all on the trails at SH and Moab. He made it sound like you couldn't look at the front ends without something breaking. Heres the thread: Land Cruiser vs. Tacoma. I refer to post #26.
Does anyone else have insight on this? I doubt the IFS is actually as weak as he's saying; otherwise it wouldn't be such a popular platform. Maybe they just don't hold up that well to the constant traction of Moab? What gives?

Yoooooo everybody just have some really stupid questions from someone interested in buying their first VDub. I’m a Subaru guy originally (450whp Legacy GT) but the products weird now and I always liked the golf’s.
Would prolly track it on the weekends. Would not be my only vehicle and I try and work on my own stuff so downtime isn’t a huge deal. Annoying but not a deal breaker. But mainly looking for a more fuel efficient DD (drive a 4runner now) with a good power plant for a future build.
Live in Colorado so the awd is a plus but not a huge fan of the idea of extra haldex maintenance.
My brother had an R32 and that thing was the tits but the haldex on his was troublesome. I’m sure it’s been updated since the r32 but just looking for more information.
Driven them both in manual and auto. Would be happy with both. Lower insurance on the gri sounds nice. Not a deal breaker tho.
Manual is fun but the DSG straight gets it. How is the 6 speed tho? Have heard about the clutches failing pretty early in tuned R’s but idc I’ll put a new, stronger clutch in it. Assuming the stock clutch isn’t very strong, is it even worth it considering the mpg boost and efficiency of the DSG?
DSG mechatronics? Is it bad or are people just stupid and not servicing it at proper intervals? What are we paying to replace it?
How is the 2.0t? What wears first and what to look for?
I know the r turbo is a popular upgrade on GTI’s. What else is different between the motors? Rods? Injectors? Any info is helpful.
What’s maintenance like on the R vs the GTI?
What are they like reliability wise vs like a Wrx? Let’s assume the driver is a 25 year old kid who’s prolly gonna get on it more often then not. Let’s assume this kid knows how to properly take care of a boosted vehicle. For argument sake. Which one you taking to last the longest with proper maintenance.
Really like the R but having a hard time justifying the price point when I could just dump the extra into a used gti.
Why are 16 and older R’s so cheap?
What’s the “best year” for a used GTI?
What to look out for on used R’s and gtis?
Full send the 23 gti?
F*ck it and get an s3? The s3 flew but the trunk sucks balls and it felt cramped af. Kinda rode like shit too IMO even with the magnetic ride.
I’ve hit the forums and read a decent amount but everybody just wants their dick sucked about their car on forums. People on Reddit are assholes and that’s the energy I appreciate in a car review.
Appreciate y’all.
Cheers.

I recently started noticing that my 4runner ('07 SR5 V6 w/150k) vibrates, almost like you're driving over washboard, at about 25-30mph but it usually cuts out the second you get over 30 or whenever it shifts to the next gear. The strange thing is, it doesn't seem to happen every single time I bring her up to speed. I mostly notice it when accelerating out of stop sign or red light and onto an inclined road. I have noticed it on other occasions but again, it does not happen consistently.

• Bumpy roads? Possibly but I've as best I can tell the roads look like theyre in pretty good shape
• Unbalanced tires? Again, possible, but isn't ~30 mph a little low to notice that? and shouldn't it happen more consistently?
• Something with the transmission? Again possible but I would also venture that this should happen more consistently? That being said the vibrations do seem to cut out once the car shifts to the next gear. Is it possible to have something wrong with a single gear in your transmission?

Anyways, hoping to get some direction before heading into a mechanic. Planning to start with a balance + rotation and take it from there. Thanks in advance!
​
Edit: Found this forum post and sounds like the same issue, which was resolved by changing the transmission fluid? Step 2 if tire balance doesn't fix it.

Replaced the actuator with and the door handle switch on a 2007 4Runner. Both parts are brand new and OEM. Well the bastard actuator doesn’t want to latch. I already tried resetting it by pulling the fuse, disconnecting the battery for about 3 hours, and disconnecting the rear ECU. If I push the locking mechanism with a screwdriver to the closed position the actuator motor runs and finishes latching it, so it’s def getting power. However I have no way to do this with the hatch closed so I had to ratchet strap the hatch closed for tonight. I’ve been scouring forums and tried everything but no luck. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
TLDR, replaced rear actuator and door switch. Tried different resetting methods and actuator still doesn’t want to close when I push the hatch down. Pushing the door switch does nothing.

New prospective Mazda owner here. I have been doing a lot of research on the 4th gen 3’s and I am kinda at a cross roads.
Everyone on forums raves about the hatch as the body style to get. Better cargo space and “better looks,” seems to be the main selling points for most.
However, I personally think the sedan is a better looking car, but looks is super subjective. Not hating on the hatch, it just doesn’t look as good as the sedan to me.
I have a ‘06 Toyota 4Runner that I plan on keeping (and potentially upgrading to a bigger truck eventually) so I always have that if I need to haul large/bulky items. The only cargo I would haul with the 3 would be a couple suitcases for the missus and I on weekend getaways, which could fit in the sedan no problem. No kids either.
Is there any other reason to get the hatch if cargo for bulky items isn’t a concern for me? Unfortunately my local dealer only has a turbo PP sedan so I can’t easily test drive both to compare for myself.
I was just curious if there was any other benefit to the hatch like MPG, road/wind noise, handling, ride, etc. that I am unaware of. I know the blacked out trim is only on the hatch, which is kinda lame for me, but I could get the sedan trim blacked if it ends up bugging me that much.
Any input and experiences is appreciated! Thanks in advance : )

Hi guys. New to the forum. Currently a 4runner nut. Jumping ship to join the Prius family. When looking to buy a used Prius, how do I check the battery health to see if I need a replacement? There is so much info on the net, I don’t know which one to trust. Should I just take it somewhere? Also, if a Prius does need a new battery, how much should I expect to pay? Thank you 🙏🏽

Hey all,
I've been reading and researching forums and hope to get some opinions here.
I have a '22 Tacoma but with a new baby it's very tight for our family.
Lucky enough to have the option for a new '23 ORP w/ kdss at $49k. There is also a local 1-owner 2015 Pro at about 90k miles for $35k. I love the idea of new, of kdss, and having updated tech. That push button start is amazing! I also like the idea of lower payments and having some extra cash to mod the pro. The payments aren't necessarily a stretch on the new ORP but I would really rather not have that much debt.
Given that the payments are what they are I am also trying to figure out the differences in tech and features. I like getting off road and love the locke crawl option. I'd likely change out the head unit and speakers of the pro. Don't really mind the old-fashioned key ;) What will I be missing?
Curious what y'all think
Thanks in advance and really looking forward to getting back in to the 4runner world after the dalliance with the taco!
​
EDIT: Thank you to all who took the time to reply. I completely missed the safety updates that come in the newer vehicles and that really seals the deal for me. Will post pics when I pic up the new ride!

I’ve got a 2022 4Runner TRDOR. Not modified (yet).
Curb weight: 4,750 Maximum Payload: 1,550 Gross Weight: 6,300
Max Tongue Weight: 500lbs
2 Humans in front seat: 360lbs 2 kiddos in back seat: 120lbs 2 dogs in rear cargo: 200lbs
So the payload is 680lbs without luggage, which I plan to put in the trailer.
Trailer is an Intech Flyer Explore, with some options:
https://intech.com/rv/models/flyeexplore/
Dry weight: 1990lbs with the installed options. GVWR: 2,990lbs Tongue weight: 410lbs*

• This seems really high for the much smaller dry weight, but the trailer is also a toy hauler, and I’ve read the tongue weight will actually go down when it is loaded?

Trailer will be loaded with luggage and camping stuff, which I would weigh such that it didn’t exceed 1,000lbs. I don’t see myself ever exceeding 500lbs of cargo back there.
I’m a little confused on where to calc from here. Can I just add 4,750 (curb) and payload (680) and 410 (max the tongue would ever weigh on this trailer…. I think) and get 5,840 and feel good about being under 6,300? The 4Runner forums and Intech Facebook groups are full of people doing this with 5th gen 4Runners, but I thought I would ask here to get clarity on the math.
I’ll be doing trips to the ozarks and through the mountains in Colorado.

Hey everyone. I am looking for camping recommendations that are about 2ish hours away from Charlottesville, VA. My typical camp situation is using Dept. of Wildlife and Game Management areas, or National Forrest Service Roads that I can drive in my stock 4Runner. I have a handful of spots I like to go too that have either hiking or fishing. I just want to try something new further away from where I live currently.
My most ideal situation is something off the beaten path with dispersed sites, hiking trails nearby, and if possible, some fishing. If anyone has any spots, they are willing to share with me in the comments for DM. I'm just a little burned out looking at google maps, forums and the MVUM. A little help would be greatly appreciated.

Hey everyone. I am looking for camping recommendations that are about 2ish hours away from Charlottesville, VA. My typical camp situation is using Dept. of Wildlife and Game Management areas, or National Forrest Service Roads that I can drive in my stock 4Runner. I have a handful of spots I like to go too that have either hiking or fishing. I just want to try something new further away from where I live currently.
My most ideal situation is something off the beaten path with dispersed sites, hiking trails nearby, and if possible, some fishing. If anyone has any spots, they are willing to share with me in the comments for DM. I'm just a little burned out looking at google maps, forums and the MVUM. A little help would be greatly appreciated.

Hey everyone. I am looking for camping recommendations that are about 2ish hours away from Charlottesville, VA. My typical camp situation is using Dept. of Wildlife and Game Management areas, or National Forrest Service Roads that I can drive in my stock 4Runner. I have a handful of spots I like to go too that have either hiking or fishing. I just want to try something new further away from where I live currently.
My most ideal situation is something off the beaten path with dispersed sites, hiking trails nearby, and if possible, some fishing. If anyone has any spots, they are willing to share with me in the comments for DM. I'm just a little burned out looking at google maps, forums and the MVUM. A little help would be greatly appreciated.

Hi everyone, I am new to the scion community, but I have owned a 2008 scion xD for 8 years. I have slowly done upgrades to it. I installed an after-market radio with a backup camera a year ago. Now, I have decided that I want to upgrade to an OEM radio from 2014 scions and up since I prefer the OEM look. 😁 In the end, I decided between the headunits PT546-00140 or PT546-00160.
Below is all the information I have gathered after looking at several forums and videos. I hope this helps other Scion xD owners.
Also, I wanted to get a radio head unit that potentially came with navigation even though its outdated just because.😁 So I included that information too.
Based on the OEM radio I get, then I can decide on backup camera to get.
Radio PT546-00140 (axcp-q14u / T10015) With navigation, try to get jumper harness with it
I will need:

• PT546-00142 Audio Wiring Harness kit which includes: • PT546-00120-AD - Antenna Adapter • PT546-00120-CH - 28 pin harness • PT546-00120-US - USB
  
• PT546-NU160 - microphone w/cable
  
• PT296-00141-AA - Antenna GPS
  
• PT296-47129-AB - nav to consel harness • PT296-00140 - Scion Navigation with BeSpoke aha extension box module
  
• Back up Camera: will need a 6v camera and the 16 pin harness for PT546-00140 radio. Most backup cameras are 12v so will need a converter (RED WOLF Compatible with Toyota...https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0945W58B2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share)
  

• To enable (unlock) the navigation features, the GPS antenna and firmware upgrade known as "BeSpoke/EnTune additional flash" is required. With appropriate file, the procedure is performed by inserting a prepared USB flash drive.
• NAV UNIT PT296-47130 - enables Nav AND ENTUNE (pandora, bing, moviefone, weather, traffic, open table, stocks, etc...) this is for Toyota 4Runner model but has been tested and DOES work in FRS, just unsure about Apps, etc.
• NAV UNIT pt296-00140 / PT296-00142-AA - enables Nav and BeSpoke. this is the "correct" part for the radio head unit, but if the EnTune apps will work on our cars, I'd much rather have that over the BeSpoke.
Radio PT546-00160 (AXLP-Q16U / T10071/2016 - 2018) Scion version or PT546-00170 (AXLP-Q17U / T10087) Toyota version With navigation, try to get jumper harness with it.
I will need:

• PT546-00142 Audio Wiring Harness kit, which includes: • PT546-00120-CH - 28 pin harness • PT546-00120-AD - Antenna • PT546-00120-US - USB
• PT546-NU160 replaces PT546-74120-MC PT546-00120-MC? - Bluetooth microphone w/cable
• PT-296-12160-AA - Navigation box (Alternative options PT296-12170-AA/PT296-00171/ PT296-00170 may also work)
• PT296-47129-AB - nav to consel harness
• PT296-00141-AA - Antenna GPS
• Back up Camera: will need a 6v camera and the 24 pin harness for PT546-00160 radio. Will also need a converter if camera is 12v

I may also Update USB AUX (Old part #86190-48010) Potential upgrade:

• 86190-0E030/ 86190-48030
• FA134342A?
• pt296-47130 is for 2014 scion xD that works with PT546-00140 radio
• 86190-0R010; 8619052060 fits 2016 scion iM

Hi everyone, I am new to the scion community, but I have owned a 2008 scion xD for 8 years. I have slowly done upgrades to it. I installed an after-market radio with a backup camera a year ago. Now, I have decided that I want to upgrade to an OEM radio from 2014 scions and up since I prefer the OEM look. 😁 Also, I needed to replace my key since it broke😅
Below is all the information I have gathered after looking at several forums and videos. I hope this helps other Scion xD owners.
I'm also thinking of upgrading the Aux to the USB/Aux from the later scion models.
Based on the OEM radio I get, then can decide on backup camera to get. - PT546-00140 (axcp-q14u / T10015) With navigation, try to get jumper harness with it I will need: - PT546-00142 Audio Wiring Harness kit which includes: • PT546-00120-AD - Antenna Adapter • PT546-00120-CH - 28 pin harness • PT546-00120-US - USB

• PT546-NU160 - microphone w/cable
• PT296-00141-AA - Antenna GPS (Amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R6NMCWK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share)
• PT296-47129-AB - nav to consel harness • PT296-00140 - Scion Navigation with BeSpoke aha extension box module

• To enable (unlock) the navigation features, the GPS antenna and firmware upgrade known as "BeSpoke/EnTune additional flash" is required. With appropriate file, the procedure is performed by inserting a prepared USB flash drive
• NAV UNIT PT296-47130 - enables Nav AND ENTUNE (pandora, bing, moviefone, weather, traffic, open table, stocks, etc...) this is for Toyota 4Runner model but has been tested and DOES work in FRS, just unsure about Apps, etc.
• NAV UNIT pt296-00140 / PT296-00142-AA - enables Nav and BeSpoke. this is the "correct" part for our cars, but if the EnTune apps will work on our cars, I'd much rather have that over the BeSpoke

• Back up Camera: will need a 6v camera and the 16 pin harness for PT546-00140 radio. Most backup cameras are 12v so will need a converter (RED WOLF Compatible with Toyota...https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0945W58B2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share)
  
• PT546-00160 (AXLP-Q16U / T10071/2016 - 2018) Scion version or PT546-00170 (AXLP-Q17U / T10087) Toyota version With navigation, try to get jumper harness with it I will need:
  
• PT546-00142 Audio Wiring Harness kit, which includes: • PT546-00120-CH - 28 pin harness • PT546-00120-AD - Antenna • PT546-00120-US - USB
  
• PT546-NU160 replaces PT546-74120-MC PT546-00120-MC? - Bluetooth microphone w/cable
  
• PT-296-12160-AA - Navigation box (Alternative options PT296-12170-AA/PT296-00171/ PT296-00170 may also work)
  
• PT296-47129-AB - nav to consel harness
  
• PT296-00141-AA - Antenna GPS
  
• Back up Camera: will need a 6v camera and the 24 pin harness for PT546-00160 radio. Will also need a converter if camera is 12v
  

Keyless Entry two MOZB41TG (KeylessOption Keyless Entry... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CYNDS5E?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share)

1. Start with driver door Open
2. Insert and remove key twice
3. Close door twice, leave open
4. Insert remove key once
5. Close door twice leave open
6. Insert key, close door
7. Turn ignition On, turn back Off remove key (don't start ignition)
8. Simultaneously press lock and unlock buttons for 5 seconds
9. Immediately Press lock or unlock for 2 seconds

Maybe Update USB AUX (Old part #86190-48010) • 86190-0E030/ 86190-48030 • FA134342A? • pt296-47130 is for 2014 scion xD that works with PT546-00140 radio • 86190-0R010; 8619052060 fits 2016 scion iM

Need some insight. It's almost time for the Bridge stones to go. I have read a lot of threads on the forums and this sub. Unfortunately, there are roughly 477,7652,965 threads comparing K02s and Wildpeaks, but there are only a handful of threads discussing all terrains vs a street/mud snow tire. Moreover, there are even fewer discussion that focus on the onroad performance as compared to off road. I have a 2022 TRD ORP Premium for reference.
I believe I have it narrowed down to (1) Falken Wildpeaks ats or (2) Michelin Defenders m/s.
My current thought process is: life is short give the all terrain tire a chance as I've never had an all terrain tire on any vehicle. My biggest hesitation is that I don't need an all terrain tire, I need a tire to perform well on pavement in the rain and driving on the highway at 80 for extended periods. ATS tires look cooler and would presumably perform better if I get the chance to off-road. Some people have even said the Falkens are quieter than the stock Bridgestones!
One big outstanding question I'd like answered by you guys: what does the situation look like off-road where the Michelin Defenders wouldn't get me out, but the Falkens would? I mean, I would never take my 4Runner down a trail where I could flip/cause serious harm/cross a river ect. If those the situations where the difference is important I'll just move forward with the defenders.
Let me know your thoughts.